Different Types of Furniture Paint: Which is Best for Your Project?

Which Type of Paint is Best for Painting Furniture?

It’s fun to refurbish your furniture and give it a whole new look! When I started out painting and upcycling furniture, I didn’t realise how many paints were out there, nor the differences between them. Since using different varieties, I thought I’d share what I’ve learned with you...

When you’re looking at a piece of furniture that you want to paint, you’ll no doubt be imagining the aesthetic that you’d like to achieve. At the very least you’ll be checking out other furniture for inspiration. Of course, all furniture paint works to achieve the end result of changing the colour of your furniture, however, different paints can give different finishes.

Before purchasing your paint, envision the final finish that you’re aiming for eg: sleek and modern? Farmhouse? Or more of a distressed, vintage, artistic look? Also, consider where you'll be painting. Will you be painting your furniture inside your home or in the garage etc'?

Some paints have less fumes than others, and so if you have little children in the area you'll be painting, or if you or someone in your household has asthma ect', you'll need to consider that in your choice of paint.

Read on to find out the types of paints out there, and a general outline on what looks you can achieve with them.

We all know that our budgets can vary from one month to the next, and sometimes when purchasing just about anything, you may need to consider the cost. Some of these paints are cheaper than others; I’ve treated myself to the more expensive ones, and used cheaper ones when my budget has called for it.

So once you’ve considered the look you’d like to achieve, and you know what budget you have to play with, this information may help you make more of an informed choice.

*Note: This article focuses on ‘hand-painting’ furniture, not on which paints work best for spraypainting.

Painting Furniture with Latex Paint:

Homemade

'Chalk-Style' Paint....

So, you're just starting out, eager to breathe new life into old furniture. What's the first thing you reach for? For many, it's latex paint—the stuff you typically use to decorate your indoor walls. Technically speaking, latex paint isn't exactly tailor-made for furniture. I'll admit, I went down that road myself in the beginning. My first project? An old sewing table begging for a makeover.

It was a trial run, and back then, I wasn't well-versed in the wide world of paint options (nor was I keen on splurging much on materials). So, latex paint it was. After a thorough cleaning, a round of scuff-sanding, and a coat of primer, I brushed on two coats of latex paint and sealed it with polycrylic. And you know what? It turned out pretty well—I was happy enough with my maiden effort.

But here's the catch with latex paint on furniture: while it might initially give your piece a great makeover , it might not stand the test of time as well as paints that are explicitly formulated for furniture. Quality and price range can vary among latex paint brands, which can also impact durability. Then, if you place your freshly painted piece in a high-traffic spot, or worse, a damp environment, you might start seeing chips or peeling. That said, some latex paints hold up surprisingly well.

For added protection, you'll need to apply a few layers of top coat to keep your piece looking pristine.

**I don't use latex paint on its own anymore when painting furniture, but I do sometimes use it to make more of a DIY 'chalky-style' paint, by mixing it with calcium carbonate. I find it adheres well this way, and I prefer how the end result looks.

How to make DIY 'Chalk-Style' Paint: To do this, purchase a tub of ‘Calcium Carbonate’ (the powdered version; not capsules). For an 8oz tester tub of latex paint, you'll need 4 tablespoons of calcium carbonate, so tweak your amounts depending on how big your can of paint is, and how much of it you are using. If you're using an 8oz tester pot, pour it into a plastic tub, then in a separate bowl, add your 4 tablespoons of calcium carbonate and mix a little warm water into it until it forms a lump-free paste that has the consistency of a creamy soup. Add the paste into your pastic tub, mixing it really well into the latex paint. And there you go! It's ready to use! Stir at regular intervals.

Usually, purchasing two of the 8oz size tester pots, will be more than enough for 1 average size piece of furniture. Tester pot sizes may vary depending upon which country you live in. Ask at the paint counter in your nearest large DIY store.

Lastly, latex paint is a water-based paint so clean-up is easy! Just dish detergent and water (rinse your brushes ect’ really well afterwards, to get rid of dishsoap residue).

Painting Furniture with Chalk Paint...

(With A Little Help from My Trusty Water Mister...)

I'll admit, while I've occasionally opted for whipping up my own 'Chalk-type' paint substitute, I've found myself leaning towards the real deal. Why? Well, let me break down the verstilities of 'True' chalk paint.

First off, real chalk paint boasts minimal to zero VOCs (Volatile Organic Compounds), meaning no harsh chemical fumes lingering around my workspace. So in this case it's a win-win!

Secondly, that chalky texture isn't just for show—it makes sanding a breeze once the paint dries, perfect for achieving that charming 'distressed' look if that's the route you're going down.

Then there's the artistic potential. I've witnessed some truly awe-inspiring furniture transformations using genuine chalk paint, thanks to its versatility with blending, layering, and texturizing techniques. With a bit of knowledge and practice you can achieve stunning decorative finishes, ideal for making a statement piece that takes centre stage.

And let's not forget the ease of the 'cleanup'—water-based means brushes wash up like a dream!

While chalk paints generally grip surfaces well, I still always err on the side of caution, opting for a scuff-sand and prime routine beforehand. It's my personal insurance policy against any potential adhesion issues. To learn how to scuff-sand furniture before painting it read here for a tutorial.

Oh, and if you're dealing with dark wood and using a light-coloured chalk paint, watch out for pesky bleed-through from wood tannins. In those cases, a trusty stain-blocking primer with good bonding properties comes to the rescue. I use BIN shellac based primer in these cases. It blocks wood tannins and is a great surface for paint to grip onto. You can compare different primers and decide which one is best for your project by reading this blog post.

Depending upon the brand you purchase, chalk paints can be really thick. you can add a little water to it to make it easier to apply, or use a very fine 'water mister' to lightly spray the surface before applying the paint; it'll spread more smoothly without visible brushstrokes this way!

Traditionally chalk paint has a matte finish and uses clear furniture wax as a protective topcoat. You can choose to switch that out for a water-based polyurethane or polycrylic instead, if you prefer the increased level of protection this finish offers, especially if it's a 'high usage' piece (eg; bedside tables etc'). Admittedly I would personally opt for a different variety of paint for super 'high traffic' pieces, such as tables, that are subject to experiencing a lot of wear& tear.

*Note: the first original (and still regarded as the true, and trademarked) Chalk Paint ,was created by British Artist ‘Annie Sloan’. Her company has a beautiful pallet of colours. Other companies make chalk style paints too, so between them all you’ll find a colour that suits your taste, and a price that suits your budget. Also, there are a range of different shaped and sized brushes used to apply chalk, and chalk-type paint. These facilitate you in applying different techniques to create a beautiful finish.

Painting Furniture with Mineral Paint:

If you’ve never heard of mineral paint, then know that again, it doesn’t have a strong smell and is non-toxic, which is always a bonus!

Mineral furniture paint comes in some beautifully rich and vibrant colours, and the pigments come from earth minerals, hence the name.

Again, I still scuff-sand and prime before applying mineral paint, although it is stated that priming isn’t always necessary. The mineral colours are mixed into an acrylic resin which really has great bonding power, and you often don’t need an additional topcoat as the mineral paint I have used has a built in topcoat. Always check with the brand that you purchase to be sure.

If your furniture piece will be subject to lots of ‘wear & tear’, you can always additionally add a separate topcoat, to give it that extra layer or two of protection. Also, if you want your finished piece to have a satin finish, then you may need to apply an additional satin finish topcoat, as most mineral paints give a flat/matte finish. Again, check with the brand that you purchase.

The brand I use is ‘self-leveling’ so it’s easy to apply. I use a combination of brush (for legs/ledges ect’) and roller. So far I haven’t tried giving my furniture a ‘distressed’ look using mineral paint but it absolutely can be achieved, although it is preferable to ‘wet-distress’ this paint as it doesn’t have the ‘chalky’ texture of chalk paint, so you want to be sure to to control how much paint you remove in the ‘distressing’ process.

PAINTING FURNITURE WITH ENAMEL PAINT:

Painting furniture and cabinets with enamel paints can be a popular and smart choice, especially if the look you’re aiming for is a sleek, uniform finish that has a more modern aesthetic.

Enamel paints are not only available as oil-based these days, as, due to increased safety regulations re: health hazards and environmental concerns associated with toxic VOCs, an increasingly wider variety of water-based Enamel and ‘Cabinet’ paints are available.

I only have experience with using water-based enamel paint, as personally I much prefer the relatively lower VOCs to that of oil-based paints, so the following information is based purely on the use of water-based enamel paint.

Enamel paints offer a durable finish, as they dry and cure to be harder than other paint varieties. This offers more protection to your painted furniture, especially if the piece you are painting may be subject to high usage, and is therefore likely to endure more regular knocks and scuffs than other, more ornamental/statement pieces of furniture.

There are also a variety of finishes on offer, and you’ll find a good selection of satin and glossier finishes.

An additional upside to using enamel paint on your furniture is that for many brands,it has a built-in topcoat, which saves you the step of having to wait for your paint to dry before then applying multiple layers of protective finish. Check this with the brand you purchase.

You need to prep before using enamel paints. You want your final result to adhere well and be smooth in appearance.

As you can see by what you’ve read on this blog so far, I prefer to prep anyway ‘just in case’, so, clean your piece, scuff-sand with 180 0r 220 grit then prime. Be sure to lightly smooth-out any grainy or drippy texture from your primed surface with a fine (320 grit) sanding paper/block (being sure to wipe away all sanding dust afterwards) before applying your paint colour.

To apply water-based enamel paint, for a smooth, sleek finish, its best to use synthetic bristle/nylon brushes.

For the large surfaces, if you prefer, use a medium sized roller with a thin ‘NAP’ to achieve a smooth finish.

Timeless Art: Painting Furniture with Milk Paint

Do you want to have an historically authentic-looking piece with a vintage vibe , or a naturally worn/weathered look to your painted furniture? If so, Milk Paint might be the way to go. Milk paints are similar to Chalk paints insofar as they are textured, eco-friendly ,low in VOCs (therefore less toxic and relatively less odorous). Milk paint is also water-based. Both paints can be easily distressed, but Milk Paint does have some differences when comparing it to chalk paint. The first diifference being the unique organic ingredient of milk extract contained in it.

Milk paint (* Casein Paints, made from the protein contained in milk) is an old form of paint that has existed for hundreds, if not thousands of years. As well as the milk component and the mineral pigments, it can also contain other minerals such as calcium carbonate and limestone.

Another difference is that Traditional Milk Paint doesn’t come ‘ready-mixed’ like other paints do. You need to mix water into the powdered paint/pigment really well so that it doesn’t clump up. You can do this manually or use an electric whisk. Be sure to check the product instructions on the brand you purchase regarding the correct ratio of water to powder.

Additionally milk paint needs to be mixed shortly before using as it has a relatively short shelf-life after you’ve mixed it, and doesn’t store well for long, although it does need some time to thicken before you use it. Check the brand you have bought for exact instructions re; timings.

Milk paint may be thinner than most chalk paints, but since you add the water and mix it yourself, you can tweak the consistency depending upon if you’re wanting a solid colour,or more of a ‘paint wash’ look. If you don’t mix the powder in really well then you could end up with streaks in your painted finish, although this can also be done purposefully to create a unique and ‘artsy’ finish.

You do need to scuff-sand most surfaces before applying traditional milk paint, just to create a surface for the paint to adhere to. This is especially important if you have a piece of furniture with a ‘shiny’ surface. If your piece is wood and has dark or red tones to the wood, you can use a stain blocking primer to seal-in the wood tannins and prevent them from bleeding-through the paint. If your wood is lighter, and you’re not concerned about bleed-through (eg; because your paint colour is really dark), as long as you have scuff sanded, you may not need a primer, as milk paint can soak into wood, as opposed to sitting on top of it. However If your furniture is laminate you may want to add a bonding primer, as milk paint can easily chip anyway (which is great for purposely creating the chippy, worn look on wood) but a shinier surface like laminate can cause a lack of adherence, leading to too much chipping.

If you don't want a distressed 'chippy' look when using milk paint, some milk paint companies sell a bonding agent that is specifically for working with milk paint.

Once milk paint has been applied, and distressed (if you want to distress it), it has a uniquely beautiful finish that can lend a vintage or antiquated look to your piece.

If you are aiming for a smooth look to your piece then you can apply your Milk Paint with a synthetic brush, and/or a foam brush, in smooth strokes, and once each coat is dry you can gently sand any grittier bits out with a fine grit (320 or 400) sandpaper or sanding block. For a ‘chippy’ and more textured look, you can apply milk paint with a natural brittle brush/chip brush.

Milk paint can also be layered eg; painting one colour underneath and a complementing or contrasting colour over it, so ‘chipped’ or purposefully ‘distressed’ parts of the outer layer expose the paint colour underneath.

There are some companies that make a pre-mixed paint that claim to give a milk paint-type finish. I haven’t yet tried them yet but I intend to as I've heard good things. I’ll be sure to report back to you with my experience of them.

To protect your milk paint you can enhance the painted finish by using furniture wax as your topcoat, or you can use tung oil or hemp oil or even polycrylic (although personally, if using polycrylic/water-based polyurethane, I find that a matt/ultra flat finish suits this paint best as it gives it the appearance of being ‘authentically’ old/weathered).

Painting Furniture with All-in-One Type Paints:

Becoming more popular are the paints on the market that not only claim to eliminate the need for you to prime your furniture, but additionally, there is no need to top-coat it either, as it’s all built into the one paint.

These paints can be used on furniture and cabinets, doors ect’, and not all of them require you to ‘scuff-sand’ first, although they may recommend that you de-grease/de-gloss your piece first with a de-glossing product.

Admittedly, I prefer not to skip the steps of scuff-sanding and priming, as I’ve heard too many stories of people skipping one or both of these steps and later regretting it. The way I see it, is that it's best practise to put in the extra work of prepping a piece really well before painting, to optimize the finish, the durability and the life-span of the paint job. It’s a pain in the backside to have to take backward steps to fix mistakes that could have been avoided. For A tutorial on how to scuff sand furniture before painting it, click here. To explore different types of primers and which primer is best for your project read here.

Food for thought: If you plan on using an all-in-one type paint to paint a laminate piece, you'll need to enquire with the paint brand if the primer contained within the paint is strong enough to bond to such a sleek surface.

I usually like to use ‘green’/eco-friendly/low VOC paint, but these ‘all-in-one-type’ paints are also usually water-based and relatively low in VOCs. Always check with the brand that you purchase.

These paints are great on pieces that require one block colour (as opposed to blending colours). They're available in a variety of sheens, and are espescially good for achieving a crisp, clean and modern look.

Exploring the world of furniture upcycling can be a rewarding and fun journey. If you haven't given it a try yet, why not start with a small piece? It's a great way to ease yourself in without the pressure. Soon enough your creativity and imagination will be working hand-in-hand; transforming old pieces and breathing new life into them!

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